Stepping into the sanctuary of Fratelli Alessandria winery, the air hung heavy with the intoxicating scent of fermenting grapes and aged oak. Verduno, Italy—home for us, at least part-time—unveiled yet another layer of its charm as we met with Vittore Alessandria, the owner and soul of this esteemed winery.
As Vittore guided us into the cantina, a sacred space where the alchemy of winemaking unfolds, we were greeted by the imposing sight of large botte—massive wooden barrels that have housed generations of Barolo. The atmosphere was dense with the complex aromas of maturing wine; it felt as if the room itself exhaled the essence of years of winemaking history and devotion. What caught our eyes in this aromatic sanctuary was a secluded collection of family-only vintage wines. These bottles, set aside and aging gracefully, seemed to be imbued with familial pride and encapsulated a legacy that transcended mere commercial enterprise. This intimate corner of the cantina was a poignant reminder that wine, at its best, is an intergenerational dialogue—a continuous thread that binds the past, the present, and the future. The tasting unfolded like a curated journey through Piedmont's soul. We commenced with the Langhe Favorita, a vivacious white that flirted with our palates. Its zesty citrus undertones set a high bar for what was to come. Then, a surprising Dolcetto d'Alba entered the scene—floral notes as if a bouquet of wildflowers had been uncorked, challenging the preconceptions often tied to this varietal. But the heart of the afternoon resided in the Barolo flights. First, the Gramolere 2019, a wine that seemed to carry the very essence of the hill it was grown on—layers of black cherry, leather, and a finish as lingering as an Italian sunset. The Monvigliero mirrored the elegance of Verduno terroir: ethereal yet complex. As for the San Lorenzo di Verduno, even my wife found herself interwoven into its story, a testament to the wine's ability to channel the quintessence of its origin. This connection was so palpable that Fratelli Alessandria immortalized the moment on their Instagram. It was the Barolo del Comune di Verduno, however, that summed up the experience. Like a well-composed symphony, it showcased a harmonious balance of flavors and complexity—a culmination of impeccable winemaking and the distinguished Verduno terroir. As a WSET diploma holder, describing these wines felt like interpreting verses of poetic genius. Each sip communicated the unique terroir and reaffirmed the mastery of Fratelli Alessandria's winemaking. We later stepped outside to absorb a breathtaking panorama stretching towards Alba. A view we often take for granted was reinvigorated, reminding us that even the familiar can captivate when seen through a new lens. A few days later, a serendipitous encounter with Vittore in Alba allowed us to share Hazelfern Syrah and Pinot Noir from Oregon/Washington State. "Different," he noted, "but of equal winemaking caliber." This international exchange was like a coda to our sensory journey—affirming that, though separated by oceans and styles, a dedication to the craft transcends borders. What began as a simple wine tasting evolved into a rich tapestry of experiences, reaffirming that a bottle of wine is more than just fermented grape juice—it's a narrative, a history, and a place, all captured in glass.
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Wine Up and DownDennis Smith, IWP, AWE, WSET 3, NPWE Marsala and Chicken Marsala
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